Medici lace and the art of making it

ic.

MEDICI IvACE

AND THE

AKT OR rvl A K I N G IT

Re^. l'. S, Pat. Off.

BY

LOUISE W. PORTIER

'\

PKICE

TEN CENTS

<?- I<

UEtXARY ol CMNuntSS'
I wo CoDlu rtuciiivvx

APK 20 'lyOB

JUUjrHMXl CitU'V

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Copyright 1908, by Bernhard Ulmann & Co

MARIE DE MEDICI. QUEEN OF FRANCE.

(Copyright 1908, by Bernhard Ulmann & Co.)
1

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J!» »

^XT ACE always has been one of the highest means of expression for the beautiful and artistic.

*•«' The splendor of design, the wealth of ingenuity, the careful, painstaking effort put into

them, all contributed to place the old classic laces among the choicest products of

art, well worthy to be classed with the best in painting, sculpture, and the other fine arts.

The art of making laces first achieved a high state of development in the fifteenth and six-
teenth centuries, and in our museums still may be seen many specimens exemplifying the perfec-
tion of the art of mediaeval days. Then lace was a treasure possessed only by kings, princes, and
those of great wealth. Today the humblest person finds it available, but the laces at her command
are mostly machine made, imitations of and vastly inferior to the real laces, which, because of the
immense cost and difficulty of their production, still are beyond the purse of ordinary mortals.

This cost and difficulty modern invention is continually endeavoring to overcome. Every
effort is put forth to devise ways by which the ambitious modern woman may duplicate the classic
laces, like women of old putting into them her own handiwork and individual touch, but with a
moderate outlay of time and money. The efforts have resulted in the semi-real laces; as, for in-
stance, the Renaissance or Battenberg lace, which was so universally popular for some years, and
still continues in favor.

Yet Battenberg lace attempts only to approach some of the less perfect and attractive old
originals, like the Point de Milan. Today lacemaking has advanced beyond that point, so that now
all may make for themselves almost exact duplicates of some of the finest laces in existence— the
Venetian Point, known as Reticella, Gothic Point, and Punto Tagliato Laces.

This new lace is called Medici* (pronounced Maydidshee), after the Medici princes, the art
loving rulers of Florence. Under their patronage and in a century when the highest art of the world
was developed, the original pieces of Medici lace were made. The frontispiece, a copy of a por-
trait by Rubens of Marie de Medici, who later became Queen of France, shows a collar in the fash-
ion of the day adorned with lace so closely resembling the modern product that none but a con-
noisseur could discern the difference. The original is composed entirely of the finest of needle-
work. In the modern production the worker finds all the laborious part of the task performed in
advance, and is therefore enabled to produce the same beautiful and artistic result with the small-
est possible amount of effort. All that is necessary is to tastefully combine the materials at hand,
sewing them into shape. These materials consist of the braids, motifs, and buttons as illustrated.

The braids Nos. 3400, ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ edge effects, Nos. 3300, 3301.

3401, 3402, 3403, 3404, 3409, 3412, ^^^^Hiil^^^^l '^^^^' ^^^ ^^tifs, Nos. 50 to 59,

3413, and 3414, show the button- 529/2 ^^^^^^^^-'«''^^^^^^^| and the crochet buttons needed
hole-stitch effect which forms ^^^^^^^^I^^^^^^^^H to complete many of the de-

the connecting links of the lace, ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| signs. What may be accom-

some with and some without ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| plished with these materials

picot loops. There are, also, ^^^^^^B^^^l^^^^^^l ^'^o^'^ t>y many beautiful ex-

the broader bands, Nos. 3405, ^29/3 ^^^^^^K"^ '^^^^^^H amples in the pages which

the m^kllfli^^H follow.

* The name Medici is registered with U. 5. Pat. Off. as a Trade Mark for Braids. Lace Ornaments, Stamped Patterns, etc.

(Copyright 1908, by Bernhard Uhnann & Co.)'

330O

330 1

Reg. U. S. Pat. Oa.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Oil.
(Copyright 1908, by Bemhard Ulmann St Co.)
3

Reg. U. S. Pat. OH.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.

Medici Lace Collar, No. 506/3908, in design and style
somewhat resembling the original Medici collar; require-
ments:

Braids, No. 3301. . . 3 vds. Medallions, No. SO 73 pes.

" 3404-...12'" " " S3.. . 42 "

" .3406. . . 8 " " " 56 30 "

Buttons. No. S29/2, 19 pes.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Ofl.
Medici Lace Yoke and Stock Collar, No. 502/3905;
requirements:

Braids, No. 3401 8 vds. Medallions, No. SO 4 pes.

" 3407 9 '" " " S2 23 "

Buttons, No. 529/3, 5 pes. " " 54 22 "

" 59.... 28 "

Reg. U. S. Pat. Ofl.

Medici Lace Yoke and Stock Collar, No. 502/3902;
requirements:

Braids, No. 3408. . .7 yds. Medallions, No. 51 32 pes.

" 3407 ..2 J " " " 52. . . .12 "

" " 3403. . .12 " " "56 16 "

Medallions, No. 58. 4 pes. " " 55.... 23 '

" " S9. 7 " " " 57.. . 6 "

Reg, U. S. Pat. Oft.

Medici Laces, with corners and insertions to match,
come in great variety, with many pleasing effects. Figure
No. 512/3919 is a handsome example of a Medici Lace
border.

It is obvious that from any of them not only lace by
the yard can be made, but also pillow shams, bureau scarfs,
table covers, or curtains, of any desired dimensions.

(Copyright 1908, by Bernhard Ulmann & Co.)
4

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.

Medici Lace Collar and Cuff Set, No. 503/3903; require-
ments:

Braids, No. 3301 3 J yds. Medallions, No. SO 16 pes.

" 3407... 6 " " " 52.... 20 "

" 3404. .. . 6 " " " 53....12 '

Buttons No. 529/3, 16 pes. " " 55 20 "

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.

Medici Lace Yoke and Stock Collar, No. 502/3904; re
quirements:

Braids, No. 3301 2| yds. Medallions, No. 50 37 pes.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.

Medici Lace Collar and Cuff Set, No. 503/3917; require-
ments :

Braids, No. 3404 12 yds. Medallions. No. 51. . . 28 pes.

" 3406. ... 5' " " " 54. . ..36 "

Buttons, 529/3, 11 pes. " " 56.... 22 "

(Copyright 1908. by

Medici Lace Collar and Cuff Set, with tab. No. 504 3906;
requirements:

Braids, No. 3404 8 yds. Medallions. No. 50 25 pes.

" .3407... 6i " " " 59.... 29 "

Butlons, No. 529/3, 4 pes.

In this pattern variety is secured with some of the plain
stitches employed in Renaissance and Battenberg work,
and for which the Battenberg linen thread is the most suit-
able material.

Bernhard Ulmann l^ Co.)

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.
Medici Lace Collar and Cuff Set, No. 510/3913; require-
ments:

Braids, No. 3300. . . IJ yds. Medallion.s, No. 52. ; . .13 pes.
" 3401, . . .10 " " " 57. ... 7 "

" 3407. . .. 9 " " " 58. ..48 "

Buttons. No. 529/ 2, 12 pes.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.

No. 514/3922 shows a coat collar or bertha which ap-
proaches the original lace closely enough to deceive a con-
noisseur. The requirements for this handsome piece are :

Braids, No. 3409. .

..18 yds

" 3407 .

..M '■

" 3405..

..2\ "

'• 3410..

.31 "

" 3405..

■li "

" 3407..

■ n "

" 3409..

..8 "

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.
No. 515/3923, is a dainty cap for a baby, for which the
following materials are needed:

Braids, No. 3407 6 yds. Medallions, No. 51 24 pes.

" 3404.... 4 " " " 56 68 "

" 3301.... J " " " 50.... 3 "

Buttons, No. 529/2, 6 pes.

Medallions, No. 51. . . .58 pes.

" 55... 110 "
Buttons, No. 529/3.... 19 "
Also cuffs to match ; requirements :
Medallions, No. SI.... 20 pes.
" 55.... 56 "

Buttons, No. 529/3 6 "

(Copyright 1908 by Bemhard Ulmann & Co.)

6

Reg. U. S. Pat. 01!.

Medici Lace Waist Decoration, No. 511/3918; require-
ments :

Braids, No. 3403 18 yds. MedaUions, No. 50 111 pes.

" 3406 14 " " " 51 . . 31 "

Buttons, No. 529/2, 17 pes. " " 52. ... 39 "

" 529/3,23 " ' "58.... 33 "

" 59. . . 35 "
This pattern furnishes an elaborate and elegant waist
decoration, with large plastron effect, shoulder bands, and
stock collar to match.

Rc-y. r. s. Pat. on.

Many other dress ornaments are shown, which may be
used freely and arranged in various ways, to suit the taste
and the fancy of the wearer. As, for example, waist deco-
ration, No. 516/3924, which requires:

Braids, No 3404 10 yds. Medallions, No. 54 44 pes.

" 3407. ... 2 " '■ " 55. .36 "

" 3410... 4J " " " 52 .14 •'

Buttons. No 529/3, 38 pes. " '57 42 "

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.

518/3930 518/3934 518/3937

Effects of this kind may be elaborated with smaller
motifs, three of which are here shown. They may be ap-
plied in a great variety of ways, with splendid results.

(Copyright 1908, by Bemhard Ulmann & Co.)
7

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.

No. 507/3911 shows a summer hat made of Medici
Lace, surely one of the most attractive uses to which it can
be put; requirements:

Braids, No. 3400. . .15 yds. Mc-dallion.s, No. SO. . .113 pes.
" 3407.. ..6J " " " 51 .. .20 "

" 3410 . .3^ " •' " .52... .30 '

Buttons, No. 529/3, 11 pes. " " 56 55 "

(Copyright 1908, by Bernhard Ulmann & Co.)
8

Reg, U. S. Pat. Off.
Figure No. 500/3900, shows a table centerpiece. The
same pattern comes in a variety of sizes, from a plate doily
up to a large table centre.

Reg. U. S, Pat. Off.

A similar range of sizes is provided for the square pat-
tern No. 501/3901, in which Medici Lace surrounds a linen
centre, richly ornamented with Medici Medallions, in com-
bination with English Embroidery. The design is also suit-
able for a bureau scarf.

I

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.

An all-lace piece is shown as Figure No. 519/3956.
When applied on scrim or guipure net it makes a very at-
tractive door panel. The requirements are:

Braids, No. 3406 3§ yds. Medallions, No. 54. .

..li " " " 57.

.. 7 " " " S8..

.. 8 pes. '• " 59..

. . 4 " Buttons, No. 529/3, 10

(Copyright iqo8, by Bernhari^ Uhnann & Co.)
9

" 3410.

" 3403 .

Medallions, No. 51 .

" 52.

.30 pes.
.10 "
. 8 "

■7 "

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.

Figure No. 878 shows a Lingerie Sofa Pillow edged with
Medici Lace. In addition, the linen centre is ornamented
with Medici Lace Medallions and buttonhole or Madeira
Embroidery similar to 501/3901, page 9.

(Copyright 1908, by Bernhard Ulmann & Co.)

10

ON THE PRECEDING PAGES ARE SHOWN BUT A FEW OF THE PATTERNS SUPPLIED FOR THIS BEAUTIFUL LACE.

MANY MORE EXCELLENT DESIGNS FOR MEDICI LACE HAVE BEEN PREPARED AND A SELECTION

OF THEM REPRODUCED ON THIS AND THE PAGES THAT FOLLOW.

Reg. U. S. Pat, Off.
Medici Lace Door Panel.

S19/,^9S0.

(Copyright i

Keg. u. o. Pat. Off.
Medici Lace Door Panel.
t9o8, by Bernhard Ulmann & Co.)
11

MS2 ";. -m- '> ■

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.
Medici Lace Stock and Ciicmi.sette. S09/39S7.

W'^

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.
Medici Lace Stock and Chemi.sette. 509/3958.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.
Medici Lace Stock and Chemisette. 509/3912.

mms.

^'^^?^^

/?i~-

WM5ii

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.
Medici Lace Chemisette, Stock and Cuff.s. S17/39S7.

/

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.
Medici Lace Chemisette, Stock and Cuffs. 517/3958.

(Copyright 1908. by Bernhard Ulmann & Co.)
12

s^^

rf.

Ms

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.
Medici Lace Chemisette, Stock and Cuff.s. 517/3925.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.
Medici Lace Waist. 505/3907.

t^^^<:it

4:

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.
Medici Lace Bolero. 520/3949.

wfm

■'■' "^*^ %">"*■ "f*^

mmmm

^,"7i'

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.

Medici Lace Three-quarter Coat. 521/3959.
(Copyright 1908, by Bernhard Ulmann & Co.)
13

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off,
Medici Lace Stock and Cuffs. 503/3914.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.
Medici Lace Turnover and Cuffs. 508/3915.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.
Medici Lace Insertion and Corner. 513/3952.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.
Medici Lace Border and Corner. .'512/3952.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Oft'.
Medici Lace Stock and Cuffs. 503/3916.

,y:-\j:?;^XM-p ajU ^^-^^r-^r^^^ 'in^t uvr/;pr7R f

MITHM

^ ''/. ir.T -'^i.frij

[L'»

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.
Medici Lace Border and Corner. 513/3920.

w<l

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.
Medici Lace Stock and Cuffs. S03/3917.

^^k^w^f?^^^'

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.
Medici Lace Insertion and Corner. 513/3920.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.
Medici Lace Turnover and Cuffs. 508/3940,

(Copyright 1908, by Bernhard Ulmann & Co.)
14

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.
Medici Lace Insertion and Corner. S13/.3919.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.
Medici Lace Hat. 507/3911.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.
Medici Lace Border and Corner. S12/3951.

N**i^^'

\%i

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.
Medici Lace Border and Corner. 513/3926.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.

■' ''^^^^

Medici Lace Border and Corner. 512/3927.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.
Medici Lace Hat. 507/3909.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.
Medici Lace Insertion and Corner. 513/3951.

Li^.^-:.\

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.
Medici Lace Insertion and Corner. 513/3926.

«a

*-. -A

(Copyright 1908, by Bernhard ,Ulmann & Co.)
15

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.
Medici Lace Insertion and Corner. 513/3927.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off,

Medici Lace Ornament.
518/3936.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Of?.

Medici Lace Ornament.
518/3928.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.

Medici Lace Ornament.
518/39+2.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.

Medici Lace Ornament.
518/3929.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.

Medici Lace Ornament.
518/3935.

Reg. U.. S. Pat. OiT.

Medici Lace Ornament.
519/3945.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Oi=E.

Medici Lace Ornament.
S18/3931.

■

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.

Medici Lace Ornament.
518/3943.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.

Medici Lace Ornament.
518/3941.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.

Medici Lace Ornament.
518/3944.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.

Medici Lace Ornament.
518/3939.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.

Medici Lace Ornament.
518/3940.

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.

Medici Lace Ornament.
S18/3938.

Medici Lace Ornament.
518/3933.

>i>>

l/A

f''^^S^£^^I<^^

Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.
Medici Lace Ornament. 518/3932.

(Copyright 1908, by Bernfiard Ulmann & Co.)
16

"DO YOUR OWN INITIAL STAMPING."

BEAR STAMPING LETTERS^

ONE SPOOL OF INITIALS ONLY 10 CENTS

NO APPARATUS NEEDED EXCEPT A HOT' Wi<^

fVAe simpticitif, convenience and. cheapness tyf tnis article will appeal to eoert^
woman interestea in enihroideru worl{.

Letters 6elow show the five sizes in which theif can be procune^^

SIZE 11 SIZE 14

SIZE 18

TWENTY-FOUR

SIZE 21

TWELVE AND

SIZE 25
SIX LETTERS PER SPOOL

USE BEAR LUSTRE FOR EMBROIDERING

-^uixnn I ur v,uriUKtb5i

0 014 147 171 5 •

USE THE BEAR BRAND
EMBROIDERY COTTONS

BEAR LUSTRE

For All Kinds of
White Embroidery

is a thread of established rep-
utation, known to be the best.
It comes in several thick-
nesses, from fine to coarse,
and produces the most delight-
ful effects, excelling all others
in its brilliant lustre, clear
white color, and even thread.

HELIOS

EMBROIDERY

FLOSS

comes in both white and a
wide range of beautiful colors.
It is as glossy as the best
grade of silk, far less expens-
ive, and has exceptional value
for all kinds of needlework
where a fine thread is required.

ORION

EMBROIDERY

FLOSS

has a twisted, heavy thread,
ideally suited to embroidery
in bold effects. Every color
is represented, with the care-
fully selected tones needed
for shaded embroidery. Pro-
duces results equal to silk.

BATTENBERG THREAD

MADE OF THE PUREST LINEN IN WHITE, CREAM, AND ARABIAN COLORS

Suitable for all kinds of lace work — Bat-
tenberg, Cluny, Duchess, Irish Crochet
— and anything for which a highly finished,
hard, durable linen thread is important

— BATTENBERG THREAD ^and Use No Other

Remember the Name"

^'eR4RyoFrn^

0 0l4uy"',]fm